Backyard Orchard Culture - page 2More on Backyard Orchard Culture...
 Backyard Orchard Culture means Understanding the Reasons for Pruning Most kinds of deciduous fruit trees require pruning to stimulate new fruiting wood, to remove broken and diseased wood, to space the fruiting wood, and to allow good air circulation and sunlight penetration in the canopy. Pruning is most important in the first three years, because this is when the shape and size of a fruit tree is established. It's much easier to keep a small tree small than it is to make a large tree small. Pruning at the same time you thin the crop is strongly recommended. By pruning when there is fruit on the tree, the kind of wood on which the tree sets fruit (one year-old wood, two year-old wood, spurs, etc.) is apparent, which helps you to make better pruning decisions. Backyard Orchard Culture means Summer Pruning for Size Control There are several reasons why summer pruning is the easiest way to keep fruit trees small. Reducing the canopy by pruning in summer reduces photosynthesis (food manufacture), thereby reducing the capacity for new growth. Summer pruning also reduces the total amount of food materials and energy available to be stored in the root system in late summer and fall. This controls vigor the following spring, since spring growth is supported primarily by stored foods and energy. And, obviously, pruning is easier (and more likely to get done) in nice weather than in winter. Backyard Orchard Culture means Not Being Intimidated by Planting or Pruning Fruit tree pruning needn't be complicated or confusing. When planting, be aware of air circulation. This is important in cutting down disease problems. Check drainage. If poor draining soils are suspected, consider a raised bed to protect the trees from starving for oxygen in heavy soils. Up to 4 trees can be planted in a 4x4 foot bed raised up at least 12 inches. Larger beds can accommodate more trees. In Backyard Orchard Culture, pruning is simple. When planting a bare root tree, cut side limbs back by at least two-thirds to promote vigorous new growth. Then, two or three times per year, cut back or remove limbs and branches to accomplish the following: First year: At planting time, bareroot trees may be topped at 15 inches to force very low scaffold limbs, or higher, up to four feet, depending on existing side limbs and desired tree form. After the spring flush of growth, cut the new growth back by half (late April/early May in Central Calif.). In late summer (late August to mid- September) cut the subsequent growth back by half. When selecting containerized trees for planting in late spring/early summer, select trees with well-placed low scaffold limbs. These are usually trees that were cut back at planting time to force low growth. Cut back new growth by half now, and again in late summer. Two / three / four trees in one hole. At planting time, plant each tree 18? to 24? apart. Cut back all trees to the same height. Cut back new growth by half in spring and late summer as above. In the first two years especially, cut back vigorous varieties as often as necessary. Do not allow any variety to dominate and shade out the others. Plant each grouping of 3 or 4 trees in one hole at least 12 to 15 feet apart to allow for adequate light penetration and good air circulation. Hedgerow plantings. Easiest to maintain when spaced at least 3 or more feet apart. Make sure that the placement of the hedgerow does not block air circulation and light from other plantings. -To conserve water, apply at least 4 inches of mulch up to 4 feet outside of the planting - |
